Eyelash Growth Cycle Explained: Anagen, Catagen, and Telogen Phases

Ever wondered how long it takes for eyelashes to grow? As simple as this question might seem, the answer is far from straightforward.

The growth of eyelashes depends on many variables, making it essential for lash technicians to understand the intricacies of the eyelash growth cycle.

This knowledge not only helps lash artists apply extensions correctly but also equips them to educate clients on the natural process of lash shedding and the importance of regular refills.

At any given time, your eyelashes are in one of three phases: Anagen, Catagen, or Telogen. Understanding these phases is crucial for mastering lash extension application and retention.

In this blog, we’ll dive deep into each stage, discuss the ideal time to apply lash extensions, and explore how the eyelash growth cycle impacts the overall lash look.

The Eyelash Growth Cycle: An Overview

Just like the hair on your head, your eyelashes are constantly growing, shedding, and regrowing. This continuous cycle ensures that you always have lashes, even if a few fall out. The cycle consists of three distinct phases:

1. Anagen Phase (The Growth Phase)
2. Catagen Phase (The Transition Phase)
3. Telogen Phase (The Resting Phase)

Each of these phases plays a vital role in the health and longevity of natural lashes. Let’s explore them in more detail.

1. The Anagen Phase: Active Growth

The Anagen phase is also known as the growth phase. During this stage, natural lashes actively grow as they are fuelled by a blood supply from the root of the hair follicle. This phase is crucial for the development of new lashes and typically lasts anywhere from 30 to 45 days.

• Characteristics of Anagen Lashes:
  • They appear shorter compared to fully grown lashes.
  • If you were to pluck an Anagen lash, you might notice a small bulb at the root, indicating its connection to the blood supply.
  • These lashes are strong and secure in the follicle, making them the best candidates for lash extensions.

Why It’s Important:
Attaching extensions to Anagen lashes ensures the longest possible retention. Since these lashes are at the very start of their growth cycle, they will hold the extension as they continue to grow, providing clients with more time between refills.

2. The Catagen Phase: The Transition Stage

The Catagen phase is also known as the transition phase and lasts approximately 10 to 20 days. During this phase, the hair follicle shrinks and detaches from its blood supply, causing the lash to stop growing.

• Characteristics of Catagen Lashes:
  • Lashes maintain the length they gained during the Anagen phase.
  • They are still securely attached to the follicle but are no longer growing.
  • A new Anagen lash is already forming beneath, preparing to replace the Catagen lash.

Why It’s Important:
While lashes in the Catagen phase can still hold extensions, their retention time may be shorter. This is because they are no longer actively growing and will eventually transition into the Telogen phase.

3. The Telogen Phase: The Resting Phase

The Telogen phase, also known as the resting phase, is the final stage of the eyelash growth cycle. During this stage, the lash is no longer growing and is simply resting in the follicle until it naturally sheds. This phase can last up to 100 days, depending on the individual’s lash cycle.

• Characteristics of Telogen Lashes:
  • These lashes are fully grown and may appear longer than others in earlier stages.
  • They are easily dislodged and may fall out with minimal force.
  • A new Anagen lash is pushing through beneath, ready to begin the cycle again.

Why It’s Important:
Applying extensions to Telogen lashes is not ideal because they are nearing the end of their life cycle. These lashes are likely to fall out sooner, resulting in shorter retention times for the extensions and potential dissatisfaction for the client.

Optimal Phase for Lash Extensions

As a lash technician, your goal is to provide clients with extensions that last as long as possible. To achieve this, it’s crucial to apply extensions during the Anagen phase, when lashes are at the start of their growth cycle.

• Why Anagen Lashes Are Ideal:
  • They are securely attached to the follicle, offering excellent retention.
  • Extensions will grow out with the natural lash, giving clients more time before they need a refill.

If extensions are applied to lashes in the Telogen phase, clients may experience premature shedding, leading to uneven lash sets and the need for more frequent touch-ups.

How Many Lashes Do We Have?

On average, we have 85 to 150 natural lashes per eye, depending on genetics and individual lash cycles. A classic full set of extensions typically involves attaching extensions to at least 40 natural lashes per eye, but this number can vary based on the client’s preferences and the desired look.

How Lash Growth Impacts Retention

Understanding the eyelash growth cycle allows you to educate clients about the natural shedding process. Many clients are surprised to learn that lashes shed regularly, with or without extensions.

By explaining how the growth cycle works, you can set realistic expectations for retention and refills.

If a client’s extensions seem to fall off faster than expected, it could be due to:

• Extensions being applied to Telogen lashes.
• External factors like improper aftercare or excessive rubbing of the eyes.
• Seasonal shedding, which can temporarily increase lash loss.

Tips for Educating Clients

• Set Expectations: Let clients know that natural shedding is part of the lash growth cycle and that refills are necessary every 2–3 weeks to maintain a full look.
• Aftercare Instructions: Provide guidance on how to care for their extensions to maximise retention. This includes avoiding oil-based products and cleansing lashes regularly with a lash-safe cleanser.
• Custom Recommendations: Tailor lash sets to each client’s natural lash cycle and density to ensure optimal results.

Key Takeaways

Understanding the Anagen, Catagen, and Telogen phases of the eyelash growth cycle is essential for providing high-quality lash services.

By applying extensions to lashes in the Anagen phase, you can enhance retention and client satisfaction.

Learn More with our Free 'Mini' Lash Course

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